Independent fashion designers and labels are never shy with their expressive voice. Most often incredibly creative and exaggerated forms and brave ideas reflect their designs, while flavoured with unique and personal points of view. It is an expression digest: researching and archiving the fresh takes on modern feminine silhouettes.This list introduces five independent fashion designers who are working on redefining a new femininity with dressy wardrobe and ruffles in the prime focus. Each of them are different in their approach and palette, as well all they each represent different countries, however their take on what is beautiful in fashion explores the idea of a contemporary romantic silhouette.&nbsp;<h3>Aluf: Soft Shades of Brazilian Sun</h3>&nbsp;Sustainability and human physique are the core of Sao Paulo based brand Aluf. Ana Luisa Fernandes graduated from <a href="https://www.faap.br/">Faap</a> in 2017 and launched her brand with idea of self expression through wearable pieces. Brand is ethically manufactured in Brazil.

Aluf arises from the search of meaning, it finds its’ answers in art therapy, it researches the creative process and thinking behind the psychology and is very much inspired by the works of late Brazilian psychiatrist, Nise da Silveira, a strong avant-garde and forward thinking woman. Therefor Aluf designs tend to be very soft calm, but none the less confident.

Aluf latest collection is entitled “Letter to Nise", where the dialogue with the feminine world is started. It reflects the magnitude of self awareness, the nostalgic thoughts of missing home and the smell of mother’s clothes. A joyful request for warn sunny colours though slightly desaturated to express the deep dive into the world of pleasant memories.

Previous Aluf collections also juggle with ideas of the feminine. Ruffles, pleats and comfortable oversized volumes dominate the collections and product offerings, though the colour palette remains soft and therapeutic.

To discover more of Aluf collections you can visit the <a href="https://en.aluf.com.br/">brand's website</a>.&nbsp;<h3>Alexandra Moura: Rebellious Feminine Spirit</h3>&nbsp;Graduated quite some decades ago in 1996, Alexandra Moura has since established her leading charge of Portuguese arts and culture alongside current day contemporaries. Moura’s fashion thrives on artistic expression and offbeat rebellious spirit. Collections reinterpret traditional fashion into dynamic, intriguing and sometimes downright fun showcase of her vision. The brand is based in Lisbon, Portugal and is primarily manufactured in Portugal with appreciation for fine craftsmanship.

Alexandra Moura style goes beyond everyday, based on contemporary look it is avant-garde and exploratory in nature, seeking to approach new ways in clothing, pushing stereotypes of gender, designing collections for men and women. Moura’s work reimagines classic tailoring, turning it into a playful deconstruction much influenced by the love of Japanese fashion, leaning towards tweaked silhouettes that create exaggerated and bold shapes. Alexandra Moura infuses sense of subversiveness into each collection, and despite keeping things eccentric, the offering is wearable and romantically feminine.

Each Season, Alexandra Moura collections are timeless, emphasising texture by using interesting collage of fabrics and expressive print, rendering collections seasonless. Main idea is opposing the contrasting forces of iconic sportswear details and classically feminine look. Urban spirit subverted and bound with Romanticism, distinctly translating the cultural melancholic Portugal mood of today.

Witty and highly creative approach to design drives conceptual exploration away from conventional fashion trends. A considered sense of proportions turns designs into covetable, desirable and collectable pieces. Alexandra Moura collections give sense of individuality, strength and independence.

Alexandra Moura latest collection is entitled “Trust your Vision” and references the brand’s moments, concepts, and visions assembled throughout the last 20 years. Brand’s DNA marks its maturity with its pillars of romantic versus underground, classic versus sporty, aesthetic values versus ethical values.

20 years of intuitive and experimental processes manifest with the use of Viscose, Cotton, Jacquard Towelling, Satin, Lace and Faux Leather raw materials, while referencing 90’s aesthetics mixed with late 70’s punk-rock vibe. Disruptive elegance subverts the urban workwear silhouette in between classical and conceptual.

To discover more of Alexandra Moura collections you can visit the <a href="https://www.alexandramoura.com/">brand's website</a>.&nbsp;<h3>Naniche: Ultimate Femininity in Contemporary Setting.</h3>&nbsp;Natalie Dufková is a fresh graduate of master´s degree studies at the Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design of Prague, Czech Republic, finishing her courses in the studio of clothing and footwear in 2021. Following an internship with Matoha brand in Japan, the label Naniche was co-founded, which already got acknowledged by numerous contests by becoming a finalist of Czech Grand Design Award and wining Levi’s Award in International DIPLOMa Selection. The brand is being manufactured locally in Czech Republic.

Naniche already presented its collections in variety of events, such as Shanghai Fashion Week with here spring summer 2020 collection, as well as at prestigious European event of young creatives <a href="https://www.fashionclash.nl/">Fashion Clash</a> in Maastricht. Naniche’s collection was also showcased at annual <a href="https://www.bunka-fc.ac.jp/en/">Bunka</a> Fashion Graduate University show in Tokyo.&nbsp;Main theme for Naniche’s design approach is finding a balance between fulfilling internal values and external patterns, which are in a never-ending dialogue. There opposing eventualities intersect perfectly with ideals of femininity, a relationship with body and clothing.

Simply entitled “Her”, the latest collection reflects and comments the creative depiction of female identity in today’s world. The silhouettes showcase the woman in her nature. Main material of entire collection is Lace, symbolising beauty and fragility, and a dialogue between clothing and body. The key ingredient was exclusively manufactured in black colour for this collection by the last standing Central European bobbin lace factory <a href="https://www.topak.cz/en/vyrobky/krajky/">Topak</a>, a Czech company which works its know-how tradition since 1908.

To discover more of Naniche collections you can visit the <a href="https://naniche.shop/">brand's website</a>.&nbsp;<h3>Amorphose: Delicate Futurism of Shapes and Forms</h3>&nbsp;Swiss clothing and accessories brand Amorphose was founded in 2007 by Giancarlo Bello, who studied in <a href="https://www.polimoda.com/">Institute Polimoda</a> in Florence, and refined his skills with prestigious Italian fashion house, before diving into creating his own business. Now is skilful and authentic tailoring workshop and studio headquarters of the brand are located in Lugano, Switzerland.Amorphose style is defined by geometric shapes, new volumes and skilful tailoring techniques, that strives to establish something a bit more extraordinary and original. Each collection is characterised by a relentless pursuit of elegance, fine sophistication and exemplary attention to detail. Delicately feminine use of contrasting materials from organza and silk chiffons to more technical and rough textures like rubber or alveolar mesh. An exquisitely authentic vision of futuristic femininity.&nbsp;

Giancarlo explains the unusually evocative brand name by describing the artistic technique of anamorphosis where the image decrypts from certain angles, same as beauty of brands creations are best captured by style and movements of the woman who wears the brands offering.

Amorphose latest Spring Summer 2022 collection is entitled “twenty-four-seven” plays with idea of cyber space and online presence, its underestimated harms and overvalued benefits. The reality of virtual pain is explored through the events of last few years when our online aliases took more and more relevance, and just because it is online does not mean that it is less hurtful.

Giancarlo Bello and his brand Amorphose embraces collaborations and teams frequently teams up with jewellery designer Hana Kim for creation of brands sculptural and inflated accessories. For the latest season, yet again, Amorphose also joins forces with 3D artist <a href="https://www.nadyaplyamko.com/about">Nadya Pliamko</a> and Italian singer <a href="https://www.tridentmusic.it/en/label-trident-music/elasi.html">Elasi</a>.

To discover more of Amorphose collections you can visit the <a href="https://www.amorphose.net/">brand's website</a>.&nbsp;<h3>Rayane Bacha: Conversation with Classical Couture Silhouette</h3>&nbsp;Lebanese born Rayane Bacha first graduated with a Bachelor is Graphic Design from Lebanese American University, a skill that would later help in developing own print and embroidery designs. However Rayane continues pursuing her Fashion Design degree at the reputable <a href="https://www.istitutomarangoni.com/en">Institute Marangoni</a> in Milan. After graduation in 2013, Rayane returns to Beirut and starts her career under Elie Saab and his famous eponymous couture house. After the experience with the master and learning his atelier’s techniques, Rayane decides do build her own couture house, which she launches in Beirut, Lebanon in 2016.&nbsp;

Rayane Bacha latest Spring Summer 2021 collection is entitled “Moonchild” and inspired by a free spirited bohemian wanderer, dreamy silhouettes constructed from fluid and light fabrics and decorated with handcrafted embellishments.

To discover more of Rayane Bacha collections you can visit the <a href="https://rayanebacha.com/">brand's website</a>.&nbsp;Omnifinery will continue exploring the world of Individual Fashion Designers and Brands - an Expression Digest: researching and archiving the fresh takes on modern feminine silhouettes with a soon to come Part Two.&nbsp;Omnifinery - Feel Comfort in Your Individuality&nbsp;Text:&nbsp;<a href="https://www.instagram.com/omnifinery/">Editorial Staff</a>Omnifinery Editorial:&nbsp;2021 October <a href="https://omnifinery.com/editorial/fashion">Fashion</a> Article 001

Soft Shades of Brazilian Sun by Aluf - Rebellious Feminine Spirit by Alexandra Moura - Ultimate Femininity in Contemporary Setting by Naniche - Delicate Futurism of Shapes and Forms by Amorphose - Conversation with Classical Couture Silhouette by Rayane Bacha

Defining a Modern Feminine Silhouette with Exaggerated Ruffles through the Vision of Independent Fashion Designers - Part One

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